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Guide  Book 


to  Hie 


ByL.  S.  andM.  E.  5/cvm 


GUIDE  BOOK 


TO  THE 


Mission  of  San  Carlos 


AT 


Carmel  and  Monterey 
California 


WITH  A  CONCISE  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  MISSION 

SYSTEM  FROM  THE  BEGINNING  AND  A  BRIEF 

CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE  GIVING  DATES  OF 

PRINCIPAL  EVENTS. 


£p  L.  S.  and  M.  E.  5/evm 
Carmel,  California 

1912 

Copyright  1912 
By  L.  S.  Slevin 


San  Carlos  Mission  at  Carmel 


432344 


Preface 


In  presenting  this  booklet  to  the  public,  we  have  endeavored  to 
answer  the  many  questions  which  have  been  repeatedly  asked  us  in  the  past 
ten  years  and  we  trust  it  will  be  a  help  in  giving  an  understanding  of  the 
various  matters  pertaining  to  the  Mission  of  San  Carlos. 

To  those  desirous  of  a  further  knowledge  of  the  Missions  we  recommend 
the  works  of  Fr.  Z.  Engelhardt,  O.  F.  M.,  the  noted  Mission  historian. 

L.  S.  and  M.  E.  Slevin 


Page  four 


Chronological   Table 

Giving  Dates  of  Principal  Events 


Dec.  16,  1602  — Sebastian  Viscaino  lands  at  Monterey. 

Feb.    5,    1697 — Jesuits  in    Spain   are    granted  power  to    work  among  the 

Indians  of  the  Californias. 
Oct.  10,  1697 — Father  Salvatierra  sails  from  Mexico  for  Lower  California 

for  the  purpose  of  founding  Missions. 

Nov.  24,  1  7 1  3 — Fr.*  Junipero  (pronounced  hoo-nep'ero)  Serra  born. 
Aug.  28,  1  749 — Fr.    Serra  leaves  Spain  for    the   College    of  San  Fernando 

in  Mexico. 
June  25,  1 767 — King  Carlos    III   of     Spain    expels    the    Jesuits   from    his 

domains  and  transfers  the  Missions  to  the  Franciscan  Order. 
July  1 4,    1  767 — Fr.  Serra  sets  out  for  Lower  California. 
Apr.    8,    1  770 — Decree  issued  granting  the  Dominicans  permission  to  enter 

the     field.     Lower     California    Missions     left      in      their 

hands  and  Franciscans  proceed  to  Upper  California. 
Apr.  16,  1770 — Fr.    Serra   leaves  San    Diego  with  cargo  of  stores  for  a 

new  Mission. 

June    3,    1  770  —  Fr.  Serra  founds  the  Mission  of  San  Carlos  at  Monterey. 
Dec.  —    1  771 — Mission  of  San  Carlos  is  moved  from  Monterey  to  Carmel, 

leaving  the  church  there  as  the  parish  church. 
Aug.  28,  1  784 — Death    of    Fr.    Serra    and    appointment  of  Fr.    Palou  as 

President. 

Feb.  -  -    1  785 — Appointment  of  Fr.  Lasuen  as  President. 
Sep.  1  4,  1  786 — La  Perouse  visits  San  Carlos. 

"Fr."  is  the  abbreviation,  used  herein,  for  Fray  or  Friar,  the  title  given  to  members 
of  the  Mendicant  Orders.  Secular  priests  and  priests  belonging  to  Orders  other  than  the 
Mendicant,  will  be  designated  by  the  title  "Father"  or  "Rev." 

Page  five 


Dec.  2,  P  79i  ahd  ^794-^- Vancouver  visits  San  Carlos. 

July     7,    1  793 — First    stone  of  the  present  Carmel  Church  laid. 

Sep.    —    1  79  7 — Present  Church  completed  and  dedicated. 

1 82 1  — Mexico  secedes  from  Spain. 
Aug.  1  7,  1  833 — Decree  of  Secularization   which  results  in  disbandment   of 

the  Mission  system. 

Jan.    3,     1  836 — Dana  visits  San  Carlos. 

July    10,    1846 — Upper    California    taken  by    the  United    States  and     the 
Stars  and  Stripes  raised  on  the  Custom  House  at  Monterey. 
1852 — Tiled  roof  of  Carmel  Church  falls  in. 
1868 — Father    Angelo   D.   Casanova    appointed    pastor    of  San 

Carlos. 

July    3,     1882 — Formal  locating  of  the  graves  of  Fr.  Serra  and  companions. 
Aug.  28,  1 884 — Carmel  Church  restored  and  re-dedicated. 

1893 — Father    Casanova   dies    and   Father     R.     M.    Mestres    is 

appointed  pastor  of  San  Carlos. 

Oct.  1 4,  1 902 — Hague  Tribunal   decides   that  Mexico    shall     pay    interest 
due  the  Church. 


Page  six 


The  Beginning 


THE  first  religious  to  set  foot  on  California  soil  were  the  Franciscan  friars 
who  sailed  with  Hernando  Cortes,  on  his  expedition  of  1533. 

The  founding  of  Missions,  however,  was  begun  by  the  Jesuits  of  Spain, 
who  in  1 69  7,  were  desirous  of  working  among  the  Indians  of  the  Californias. 
They  obtained  permission  from  his  Majesty  to  accept  donations  from  those 
charitably  inclined  and  with  generous  contributions,  they  in  time  acquired  a 
considerable  sum,  which  later  became  known  as  the  "Pious  Fund". 

On  February  5,  1  697,  under  the  Provincial  Rev.  Juan  de  Palacios,  the 
Jesuits  were  granted  power  to  found  Missions  on  the  peninsula  of  Lower 
California  providing  the  country  was  taken  possession  of  in  the  name  of  the 
King  and  that  the  Government  would  not  be  called  on  to  provide  funds. 

Father  Salvatierra  sailed  from  Mexico  for  Lower  California  on  October 
1 0, 1  697,  landing  at  Concepcion  Bay,  October  1  5,  where  Mass  was  celebrated. 
This  part  of  the  country  appearing  unsuitable,  they  left  for  San  Dionisio  Bay 
a  little  further  south  where  the  soil  seemed  more  productive.  Arriving  there 
October  1 9,  a  suitable  place  for  a  Mission  was  selected  and  possession  taken 
in  the  name  of  Spain.  It  was  named  Loreto  and  thus  was  founded  the  first 
Mission  in  the  Californias.  With  this  beginning,  the  work  of  converting  the 
Indians  to  the  faith  was  continued  and  other  Missions  were  gradually  founded 
throughout  the  peninsula  until  they  numbered  about  twenty,  under  the  Jesuit 
regime. 

King  Carlos  III  of  Spain  expelled  the  Jesuits  from  his  domains  on  June 
25,  1  767,  they  being  accused,  unjustly,  of  using  the  Missions  to  accumulate 
wealth  for  selfish  motives,  and  numerous  other  crimes. 

After  the  expulsion  of  the  Jesuits  from  Mexico,  the  Government 
decided  to  turn  over  the  Missions  to  the  Franciscan  College  of  San  Fernando 

Page  seven 


in  othfec  City  «of  Mexico/ ^  Tlie  appointment  of  a  head  to  govern  the  Missions 
necessitated  the  selection  of  a  man  endowed  with  great  executive  ability  as 
well  as  deep  spirituality;  such  a  one  was  found  in  the  person  of  Fr.  Junipe.ro 
Serra. 

Fr.  Serra  was  born  at  Petra  on  the  Island  of  Majorca  off  the  coast  of 
Spain,  on  November  24,  1713.  His  mental  ability  in  theology  and 
philosophy  was  so  great  that  he  received  the  degree  of  Doctor  of  Theology 
before  his  ordination  to  the  priesthood.  Wishing  to  devote  his  life  to  missionary 
labors,  he  obtained  permission  to  work  among  the  Indians  on  the  western 
coast  of  North  America,  leaving  Spain  August  28,  1  749,  and  arriving  at  the 
College  of  San  Fernando,  January  1,  1  750. 

On  July  1 4, 1  767,  Fr.  Serra  set  out  for  Lower  California  accompanied  by 
several  other  Padres  to  accomplish  the  work  to  which  he  was  assigned.  After 
many  hardships  and  delays  the  party  arrived  at  Loreto  on  Good  Friday,  April 
1,  1768. 

The  Franciscans  were  not  vested  with  temporal  power  as  the  Jesuits 
had  been,  which  resulted  in  greatly  hampering  the  work  in  hand  as  it  was  found 
that  the  savages  were  better  reached  through  material  rather  than  spiritual 
means.  Finding  that  the  christianizing  of  the  Indians  under  this  system  was 
proving  fruitless,  the  Inspector  General,  Don  Jose  de  Galvez,  promptly 
restored  the  temporal  power  to  the  Missionaries. 

In  1  768,  the  Dominicans,  in  their  apostolic  zeal,  petitioned  the  King 
to  allow  them  some  of  the  California  Missions,  claiming  that  the  expanse  of 
territory  was  too  vast  to  be  controlled  by  one  Order.  After  much  controversy, 
his  Majesty  issued  a  decree  under  date  of  April  8,  1  770,  granting  Fr.  Juan 
Pedro  de  Iriarte  of  the  Dominican  Order,  permission  to  enter  the  field.  The 
arrangement  of  a  division  of  the  territory  was  left  to  the  Superiors  of  the  two 
Orders,  same  being  amicably  arranged  as  follows:  The  Dominicans  were  to 
take  charge  of  the  Missions  already  established  on  the  peninsula  of  Lower 
California,  while  the  Franciscans  were  to  continue  their  work  in  Upper 
California,  that  is  from  the  Mission  San  Diego  northward,  whereupon,  after  the 
formal  transference  of  the  Lower  California  Missions  to  the  Dominicans,  the 
Franciscans  -withdrew  from  that  portion  of  the  territory. 

Page  eight 


Founding  of  the  San  Carlos  Mission 


FR.  Junipero  Serra  set  sail  from  San  Diego  in  the   ship  ''San  Antonio"  on 
April  16,  1  770,  with  a  cargo  of  stores  for  a  new   Mission.     On  the 
following  day,  Governor  Portola  with  Fr.  Crespi,  soldiers  and  others  set  out 
by  land.     Both  expeditions,  in  due  time,  arrived  at  Monterey,  and  on  June  3, 
1  770,  assembled  under  a  widespreading  oak  where   Mass  was  said.     The 
religious  ceremonies  being  completed,  Portola  took  formal  possession  in  the  name 
of  Carlos  III,  and  the  Spanish  flag  was  hoisted  and  saluted.     Thus  was  formally 
founded,  the  Presidio  and  Mission  of  San  Carlos  Borromeo,  the  second  Mission 
of  Upper  California.     Some  rude  huts,  enclosed  by  a  palisade,  were  constructed 
at  once  and  these  constituted  the  Presidio  and  Mission. 

The  following  is  Fr.  Serra's  own  account  of  the  above  proceeding  as 
written  to  Fr.  Palou: 

"On  the  31st  of  May,  1770,  by  favor  of  God,  after  rather 
a  painful  voyage  of  a  month  and  a  half,  the  packet  "San  Antonio,"  commanded 
by  Don  Juan  Perez,  arrived  and  anchored  in  this  beautiful  port  of  Monterey, 
which  is  unadulterated  in  any  degree  from  what  it  was  when  visited  by  the 
expedition  of  Don  Sebastian  Viscaino  in  1  602.  It  gave  me  great  consolation 
to  find  that  the  land  expedition  had  arrived  eight  days  before  us,  and  that  Fr. 
Crespi  and  all  others  were  in  good  health.  On  the  3rd  of  June,  being  the 
holy  day  of  Pentecost,  the  whole  of  the  officers  of  sea  and  land,  and  all  of 
the  people  assembled  on  a  bank  at  the  foot  of  an  oak,  where  we  caused  an 
altar  to  be  erected,  and  the  bells  rung;  we  then  chanted  the  'Veni  Creator', 
blessed  the  water,  erected  and  blessed  a  grand  cross,  hoisted  the  royal  standard, 
and  chanted  the  first  Mass  that  was  ever  performed  in  this  place;  we  afterward 
sang  the  Salve  to  Our  Lady  before  an  image  of  the  illustrious  Virgin,  which 
occupied  the  altar;  and  at  the  same  time  preached  a  sermon,  concluding  the 
whole  with  a  Te  Deum.  After  this  the  officers  took  possession  of  the  country 

Page  nine 


in  the  name  of  the  King,  our  Lord,  whom  God  preserve.  We  then  all  dined 
together  in  a  shady  place  on  the  beach;  the  whole  ceremony  being  accompanied 
by  many  volleys  and  salutes  by  the  troops  and  vessels". 

Fr.  Serra  soon  decided  that  the  site  of  the  Mission  at  Monterey  was  not 
situated  to  best  reach  the  Indians  and  also  the  proximity  of  the  Presidio 
was  not  favorable.  Thereupon  the  zealous  Serra,  forgetful  of  his  bodily 
infirmities,  plodded  over  the  hills  on  foot  seeking  a  new  location.  He 
finally  selected  the  site  near  the  bank  of  the  Carmel  River,  about  five  miles 
distant,  where  the  Mission  Church  is  now  located.  Here  there  was  a 
good  supply  of  water  for  the  irrigation  of  crops  which  was  not  found  in 
sufficient  quantity  at  Monterey.  He  then  left  soldiers  and  Indians  to  cut  timber 
and  make  other  preliminary  preparations  while  he  journeyed  on,  founding  other 
Missions.  As  these  preparations  required  several  months,  the  formal 
transference  did  not  take  place  till  December,  1771. 

A  rectangular  stockade  of  about  1  30x200  feet  was  formed  with  heavy 
posts,  inside  of  which  were  the  simple  buildings  that  served  as  the  church  and 
dwellings.  The  buildings  were  plastered  and  roofed  with  mud  which  was 
soon  found  to  be  inadequate  to  withstand  the  rains,  whereupon  a  new  church 
was  constructed  of  lumber  hewn  from  the  pine  and  cypress  trees  which  grew 
nearby  in  abundance.  Tules  were  utilized  for  the  roofing  of  the  building. 
This  building,  however,  was  of  a  temporary  nature  as  it  was  the  intention  to 
erect  a  church  of  stone  as  soon  as  practicable. 


Page  ten 


Death  of  Fr.  Junipero  Serra 


AFTER  visiting  all  the  Missions  in  his  domain,  Junipero  Serra  returned  to 
San  Carlos  in  January  1  784.  Being  sorely  burdened  with  infirmities  and 

realizing  that  he  was  soon  to  meet  his  Creator  he  prayed  that  he  might  die 
at  his  beloved  Mission  of  San  Carlos,  which  prayer  was  granted.  In  August  of 
1  784,  he  sent  farewell  letters  to  all  his  comrades,  calling  the  Padres  from  the 
nearer  Missions  to  bid  them  a  last  good-by.  Fr.  Palou,  however,  was  the 
only  one  with  him  at  the  end  and  it  will  be  best  to  quote  his  own  words  in 
regard  to  the  last  moments  of  this  zealous  priest.  Fr.  Palou  writes: 

"He  prepared  himself  for  death  by  making  a  general  confession  as  he 
had  already  done  several  times.  Finding  that  the  complaint  in  his  chest  was 
getting  worse,  and  that  he  had  some  fever,  on  the  2  7th  of  the  month  he  went 
on  foot  to  the  church.  He  there  received  the  last  sacred  rites  on  his  knees,  to 
the  edification  of  the  people,  and  in  their  presence  received  the  Holy  Viaticum, 
as  ordained  in  the  Roman  Seraphic  Ritual.  When  the  ceremony  commenced, 
the  Father  was  on  his  knees,  chanting  with  his  sonorous  voice,  and  to  our 
astonishment,  the  'Tantum  Ergo'.  In  the  same  posture  he  gave  thanks  to  our 
Lord;  after  which  he  returned  to  his  room.  At  night  he  asked  for  the  holy  oils 
and  repeated  with  us  the  Penitential  Psalms  and  the  Litanies.  The 
remainder  of  the  same  night  he  passed  giving  thanks  to  God,  sometimes  on 
his  knees,  and  sometimes  sitting  on  the  floor.  He  did  not  take  to  his  bed,  but 
was  always  dressed  in  his  habit  and  cloak.  At  the  break  of  day  he  asked  me 
to  give  him  the  Plenary  Indulgence,  which  he  received  kneeling.  On  the 
morning  of  the  28th  he  was  visited  by  the  captain  of  the  barque,  Don  Jose 
Canizares,  and  chaplain.  He  received  them  sitting,  expressing  gratitude  for 
their  visit.  He  embraced  the  chaplain,  giving  thanks  to  God  that,  after 
traveling  so  much,  they  had  arrived  at  last  to  throw  a  little  earth  on  his  remains. 

Page  eleven 


A  few  minutes  after  making  this  remark  he  said  that  he  felt  some  fear,  and 
asked  me  to  read  aloud  the  recommendations  for  the  soul,  which  I  did.  He 
then  responded  as  if  in  good  health,  and  exclaimed  with  delight;  'Thank  God! 
I  am  now  without  fear,  and  have  nothing  to  dread.  I  feel  better;  let  us  go 
out/  He  then  arose,  and  afterwards  sat  down  at  the  table  and  took  a  little 
broth.  He  then  wished  to  rest,  taking  nothing  off  but  his  cloak.  He  laid 
tranquilly  for  a  time,  and  then  rested  in  the  Lord.  Without  making  any 
further  sign  he  delivered  his  spirit  unto  the  Creator,  on  the  feast  of  Saint 
Augustine,  Doctor  of  the  Church.  When  the  bells  began  to  toll,  the  little 
town  was  in  a  state  of  commotion;  the  Indians  cried,  lamenting  the  death  of 
their  good  Father,  as  likewise  all  the  people,  whether  on  shore  or  on  board 
the  ship.  All  asked  for  a  remnant  of  the  habit  he  had  worn.  They  even 
went  as  far  as  to  cut  within  the  church  pieces  from  the  habit  in  which  Fr. 
Junipero  died.  Before  death,  he  ordered  (without  letting  any  of  those  present 
know  of  it)  the  carpenter  of  the  presidio  to  make  his  coffin.  We  promised,  if 
the  multitude  would  hold  their  peace,  to  devote  a  tunic  of  the  deceased  Father 
to  scapulars  for  their  benefit.  Notwithstanding  this,  those  who  guarded  the 
body  in  the  church  appropriated  locks  of  his  hair  for  keepsakes.  This  they 
were  induced  to  do  because  of  their  regard  for  the  departed.  His  funeral 
was  attended  by  every  one,  whether  on  shore  or  aboard  the  ship,  each  one 
doing  what  he  could  in  honor  of  the  deceased  Father.  The  captain  of  the 
barque  utilized  his  artillery  in  conferring  upon  the  deceased  all  the  honors  of  a 
General,  and  the  Royal  Presidio  of  Monterey  responded  to  the  salute.  The 
same  marks  of  respect  were  repeated  on  the  4th  day  of  September,  with  vigil 
and  high  mass  at  which  the  same  people  attended.  Upon  this  occasion 
another  clergyman,  officiated,  namely,  Rev.  Fr.  Antonio  Paterna,  minister  of 
the  Mission  of  San  Luis  Obispo,  who  could  not  arrive  in  time  for  the  funeral. 
And  that  everything  said  may  appear  of  record,  I  sign  this  in  said  Mission,  on 
the  5th  day  of  September,  1  784. 

Fr.  Francisco  Palou." 

He  was  buried  as  he  wished  in  the  sanctuary  of  San  Carlos  church  by 
the  side  of  Fr.  Crespi,  his  colleague,  who  had  gone  to  his  reward  January  1  f 
1  783.  After  Fr.  Serra's  death,  Fr.  Palou  acted  as  President  of  the  Missions 
until  February,  1  785,  when  Fr.  Lasuen  was  chosen  for  the  office. 

Page  twelve 


Early  Visits  of  Note  to  San  Carlos  Mission 


La  Perouse's  Visit 

THE  first  voyager  having  no  connection  with  the  Missions  to  visit  San 
Carlos  was  Count  Jean  Francois  Galaup  de  La  Perouse,  the  eminent 
French  navigator  who  landed  at  Monterey  in  the  frigates  "La  Boussole" 
and  "L' Astrolabe"  on  September  1  4,  1  786.  His  reception  at  the  Mission 
may  best  be  told  in  his  own  words: 

''The  Padres  of  San  Carlos  Mission,  two  leagues  from  Monterey,  soon 
came  to  the  Presidio;  as  kind  to  us  as  the  officers  of  fort  and  frigates  they 
insisted  on  our  going  to  dine  with  them,  and  promised  to  acquaint  us  in  detail 
with  the  management  of  their  Mission,  the  Indian  manner  of  living,  their  arts 
and  customs,  in  fact  all  that  might  interest  travelers.  We  accepted  with 
eagerness  *  •  *  M.  Fages  wished  to  accompany  us  ***  after  having  crossed  a 
little  plain  covered  with  herds  of  cattle  ***  we  ascended  the  hills  and  heard 
the  sound  of  bells  announcing  our  coming.  We  were  received  like  lords  of  a 
parish  visiting  their  estates  for  the  first  time.  The  President  of  the  Missions, 
clad  in  cope,  his  holy  water  sprinkler  in  hand,  received  us  at  the  door  of  the 
church  illuminated  as  on  the  grandest  festivals;  led  us  to  the  foot  of  the  altar;  and 
chanted  a  Te  Deum  for  the  happy  issue  of  our  voyage.  Before  entering  the  church 
we  had  crossed  a  plaza  where  Indians  of  both  sexes  were  ranged  in  line; 
their  faces  showed  no  surprise  and  left  room  for  doubt  if  we  should  be  the 
subject  of  their  conversation  for  the  rest  of  the  day." 

La  Perouse  had  sailed  from  Brest,  August  1,  1  785,  having  been  sent 
on  a  scientific  and  exploring  expedition  by  the  French  Government.  France 
had  become  awakened  at  the  renown  acquired  by  England  in  her  maritime 
discoveries  and  wished  to  do  her  share  in  enlarging  our  acquaintance  with  the 
surface  of  the  globe  and  its  inhabitants. 

Page  thirteen 


Captain  George  Vancouver's  Visit 

Captain  George  Vancouver,  the  noted  English  navigator,  sailed  into  the 
bay  of  Monterey  on  December  2,  1  792.  Shortly  after  his  arrival  he  visited 
the  Mission  of  San  Carlos  accompanied  by  several  of  the  Mexican  officials. 
Here  they  met  with  a  most  cordial  welcome,  amid  the  ringing  of 
bells,  by  Fr.  Lasuen.  A  feast  was  prepared  for  them,  after  which 
an  exhibition  was  given  by  the  Indians,  showing  their  method  of  stalking 
deer.  At  the  time  of  Vancouver's  visit,  there  were  about  one  thousand 
Indians  at  the  Mission.  On  leaving  he  presented  an  organ  to  Fr.  Lasuen. 
A  drawing  made  by  a  member  of  the  party,  on  a  second  visit  in  1  794,  is 
reproduced  herein.  The  picture  is  described  as  follows: 

"The  old  church,  partly  thatched  and  partly  tiled,  stands  on  the  left 
of  the  picture  ***.  Three  bells  hang  on  a  frame  raised  on  a  stone  foundation; 
a  lofty  cross,  bearing  a  close  resemblance  to  a  modern  telegraph  pole  rears  its 
head  near  the  centre  of  the  plaza,  and  just  beyond  almost  in  contact  with  *** 
are  the  rising  stone  walls  of  a  new  one.  Beyond,  on  an  eminence  may  be 
seen  a  corral  for  cattle,  while  at  the  right  are  the  conical  huts  of  the 
neophytes.  This  church,  still  to  be  seen  on  the  banks  of  the  Carmelo,  was 
completed  in  1  797."  

R.  H.  Dana's  Visit 

Another  noted  visitor  to  the  Mission  of  San  Carlos  was  Richard 
Henry  Dana,  Jr.,  who,  in  the  ship  "Alert",  arrived  at  Monterey  on  December 
29,  1835.  This  vessel  was  one  of  several  which  were  sent  out  by 
Boston  firms  to  barter  with  the  Missions  for  hides,  tallow,  etc.  Sunday, 
January  3,  1836  being  liberty  day  for  the  sailors,  Dana,  with  other 
members  of  the  crew,  went  ashore  where  they  procured  horses  and  rode  out 
to  the  Mission  at  Carmel.  They  were  most  hospitably  received  and  given  a 
dinner  consisting  of  beef,  eggs,  frijoles,  tortillas  and  some  "middling"  wine  for 
which  the  padre  in  charge  would  accept  no  remuneration.  After  their  repast, 
they  were  shown  all  the  features  of  interest,  which  were  graciously  explained 
to  them. 

Page  fourteen 


Page  fifteen 


"he  Secularization 


THE  possessions  of  the  Missions  increasing  and  the  great  success  of  the 
Padres  aroused  the  jealously  of  the  secular  and  military  authorities. 
As  early  as  1  787,  Inspector  Sola  claimed  that  the  Indians  were  ready 
for  secularization  and  from  that  time  until  the  decree  of  August  17,  1833, 
which  brought  the  final  crash,  there  were  many  agitations  to  bring  forth  the 
"Secularization  of  the  Missions."  The  Mission  churches  became  parish 
churches  and  the  Padres,  parish  priests.  The  Indians  were  to  be  given  a 
small  portion  of  land  and  were  supposed  to  become  self-supporting. 

As  it  was  impossible  to  civilize  a  nation  of  savages  in  the  short  space 
of  fifty  or  sixty  years,  the  impracticability  of  this  scheme  soon  resulted  in  the 
disintegration  of  the  whole  mission  system. 

When  it  became  known  that  the  United  States  intended  taking 
California,  there  was  a  great  flurry.  The  Mission  property,  including  churches, 
was  all  sold  by  the  Mexican  officials  for  a  song,  or  given  away. 

Without  the  guiding  hands  of  the  Padres,  the  Indians  found 
themselves  helpless  and  wandered  aimlessly  about,  until  now  some  of  the  tribes 
are  practically  extinct,  while  others  are  struggling  for  existence  on  reservations 
set  aside  by  the  United  States  Government. 

After  the  United  States  had  taken  possession,  the  courts,  in  order  that 
justice  should  be  rendered,  returned  the  buildings  and  a  very  small  portion  of 
the  lands  to  the  Church. 

The  church  building  at  Carmel,  afterwards  having  been  left  to  its  fate, 
was  in  ruins  by  1 840,  and  in  1 852  the  tiled  roof  fell  in. 

After  going  through  many  vicissitudes,  owing  to  political  changes  and 
other  causes,  the  Pious  Fund  was  finally  confiscated  by  the  Mexican 
Government.  In  later  times,  parties  interested  in  obtaining  justice,  agitated 
measures  to  compel  Mexico  to  turn  over  the  proportion  of  the  money  due  the 

Page  sixteen 


Church  in  Upper  California.  On  October  14,  1902,  the  Hague  Tribunal 
decided  that  Mexico  should  pay  annually  to  the  Catholic  Church  in  Upper 
California,  the  sum  of  $43,050.99,  Mexican,  this  being  the  amount  of 
interest  accruing  from  the  fund,  and  this  money  is  used  in  the  cause  of  religion, 
as  was  the  intention  of  the  original  donors. 


Page  seventeer 


The  Indians 


IN  his  original  state,  the  California  Indian  is  said  to  have  belonged  to  a  race 
of  a  low  order.  His  food  consisted  of  wild  game  of  every  description 
and  even  rats.  Acorns  were  the  principal  vegetable  diet. 

Before  the  coming  of  the  Padres,  he  was  very  skillful  in  making  baskets, 
mortars,  pipes,  etc.,  and  under  the  Padres,  he  learned  various  trades,  becoming 
remarkably  competent  in  many  lines.  He  was  taught  rules  of  cleanliness  and 
also  to  clothe  himself. 

The  country  around  San  Carlos  Mission  was  inhabited  by  the  tribes 
known  as  the  Achastliens  and  Ecclemachs.  It  was  not  uncommon  for  them 
to  reach  the  age  of  one  hundred  years  and  some  were  supposed  to  have  lived 
to  be  one  hundred  and  forty.  When  Fr.  Serra  died,  1014  Indians  had  been 
baptized  at  San  Carlos  and  from  1  786  to  1  792,  the  Indian  population 
numbered  about  1000.  The  extinction  of  these  two  tribes  seems  to  be 
complete. 

The  last  Indian  at  Carmel  was  a  Yaqui  who  was  brought  here  from 
the  South  by  the  Padres  in  early  days.  In  the  early  part  of  this  year  he  was 
taken  away  and  is  provided  for  by  the  county  of  Monterey.  He  is  supposed 
to  be  considerably  over  one  hundred  years  of  age  and  it  is  interesting  to  note 
that  up  to  a  short  time  ago,  he  enjoyed  walking  to  Monterey  and  back, 
rubbing  the  soles  of  his  feet  with  hot  stones  for  quite  a  while,  previous  to  his 
starting. 


Page  eighteen 


Sketch  of  San  Carlos'  Life 


THE  Mission  of  San  Carlos  or  Carmel  Mission,  as  it  is  commonly   called, 
on  account  of  its  being  located  at  Carmel,  was  named  after  San  Carlos 
Borromeo  (Saint  Charles  Borromeo).     Charles  Borromeo  was  born  at 
Arona,  Italy,  in  October,  1538,  and  was  the  son  of  Count  Gilbert  Borromeo. 
At  an  early  age  he  entered  the  religious  life  and  later  became   Archbishop  of 
Milan.      San    Carlos    died   on    November    4,    1584,   which    anniversary   is 
celebrated  each  year  at  the   church  at  Carmel   and  is  known  as  San  Carlos 
Day,  or  the  feast  of  San  Carlos. 

On   account  of  his  piety  and  religious   zeal,   he  was  deemed  worthy 
of  canonization,  this  ceremony  being  completed  in  1610. 


Page  nineteen 


Locating  the  Grave  of  Fr.  Junipero  Serra 


AN    event    of    great    importance    took   place    on    July    3,    1882.     This 
was  the  formal  locating  of  the  graves  of  Junipero  Serra  and  the  other 
Padres  who  were  buried  in  the  church  of  San  Carlos  at  Carmel. 
In  January   of    1 882,   preliminary  work  had  been   begun  by  Father 
Casanova,    for   the    purpose    of    discovering    the    graves   of    the    priests    and 
Governors.     Workmen  were  instructed   to  dig  first,  at  the  exact  place  which 
the  old  records  give   as  the  location  of  the   grave  of  Junipero   Serra:    "In  the 
sanctuary  on  the  Gospel  side,  fronting  the  altar  of  Our  Lady  of  Seven  Dolors". 
At  the  depth  of  about  three  feet  of  the  accumulation  of  earth  overgrown  with 
weeds,  one  of  the  men  struck  some  redwood  boards,  under  which  were  found 
large    slabs    which  had    the    appearance     of    covering    a    grave,    and    this 
proved  to  be  the  case. 

Widespread  notice  of  the  intended  ceremonies  was  given  in  the 
newspapers  and  at  the  appointed  time  several  hundred  people  assembled  at 
the  ruins  of  San  Carlos  church. 

Father  Casanova  read  in  Spanish  and  then  in  English,  the  records  of  the 
burials,  as  follows: 

"Rev.  F.  Juan  Crespi,  born  in  Spain;  died  January    1 ,   A.  D.    1  782, 

61  years  old;  buried  near  the  main  altar,  gospel  side." 

"Rev.  F.  Junipero  Serra,  D.  D.,  President  of  all  the  Missions;  born  in 

Mallorca,  Spain;  died  on  the  28th  of  August,  A.  D.  1  784,  at  the  age 

of  7 1  years;  buried  in  the  sanctuary;  fronting  the  altar  of  Our  Lady  of 

Seven  Dolors,  on  the  gospel  side." 

"Rev.  F.  Julian  Lopez,  born  in  Spain;  died  here  on  the  1  5th  of  July, 

A.  D.    1  797,   aged  35  years;   buried  in  the  sanctuary,   on  the  gospel 

side,  in  the  tomb  near  the  wall  on  the  left." 

Page  twenty 


"Rev.  F.  Francisco  Lasuen,  vie.  for  second  President  of  the  Missions, 
born  in  Spain;  died  here,  and  is  buried  in  the  sanctuary,  on  the  gospel 
side  in  a  stone  tomb  near  the  main  altar,  June  28,  1 803." 

The  stone  slabs  had  been  removed  beforehand  and  a  man  then  lifted  the 
cover  of  each  coffin,  which  were  of  unplaned  redwood  and  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation.  The  remains  were  then  viewed  by  the  people.  The  skeletons 
were  in  a  fair  state,  the  ribs  were  in  their  natural  position  and  the  skulls 
unbroken.  Some  parts  of  the  vestments  were  in  excellent  condition,  a  few 
pieces  of  them  being  taken  and  preserved  by  Father  Casanova. 

The  tombs  containing  the  coffins  are  of  stone  and  about  eight  feet 
deep.  The  tomb  of  the  Fr.  Serra  was  filled  with  earth  to  prevent  any 
molestation,  after  which  the  stone  slabs  were  replaced. 

The  bodies  of  Frs.  Serra  and  Crespi  had  been  originally  buried  in  the 
temporary  church  and  in  accordance  with  the  custom,  the  remains  were 
transferred  to  the  new  (or  present)  one,  when  it  was  completed. 


Page  twenty- 


Vancouver 's  Sketch  of  1794  at  Carmel 


Interior  of  San  Carlos  Mission  at  Carmel 


Page  twenty-two 


Description  of  San  Carlos  Church 
At  Monterey 


IP)  RESIDIOS     were     established  for  the  protection  of  the  Missions  at 

1  San  Diego,  Santa  Barbara,  Monterey  and  San  Francisco,  and  it 

was  the  intention  for  each  to  have  its  chapel  and  resident  priest. 

The  present  church  succeeded  the  original  chapel.      It  does  not  seem  to 

be  clear  as  to  when  this  church  was  built,  but  in    1855,  Gov.   Pacheco 

donated  funds  for  its  enlargement.      The  original  building  was  extended 

in  the  rear  and  an  addition  built  on  each  side,  making  the  form  of  a  cross. 

The  church  is  built  of  stone  which  was  quarried  in  the  vicinity.  It 
faces  the  bay  of  Monterey,  on  the  north,  which  is  about  half  a  mile  distant. 

The  facade  is  elaborately  decorated  with  carvings  and  has  a  niche  on 
each  side  of  the  door.  These  niches  were  intended  to  hold  statues  but 
none  were  ever  placed  in  them.  Near  the  top  is  a  carving  representing 
Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe. 

On  the  left  corner  of  the  building  is  the  bell  tower,  having  arched  open- 
ings for  the  bells.  The  pyramidal  tiled  top  is  modern,  having  been  added 
in  1 893.  The  pavement  in  front  of  the  church  is  made  of  sections  of 
the  backbone  of  the  whale  (Monterey  in  the  early  days  having  been  a 
whaling  station).  They  are  set  in  the  ground  in  rows  and  the  appear- 
ance is  unique. 

In  each  of  the  side  wings  is  an  arched  doorway  of  Moorish-Gothic  archi- 
tecture. They  are  very  elaborate,  consisting  of  conventionalized  scrollwork, 
and  probably  reproductions,  of  a  similar  one  in  Spain. 

The  interior  is  completely  modernized,  but  there  are  many  of  the  relics 
still  to  be  seen.  In  the  sanctuary  are  several  chairs  probably  brought  from 
the  Philippines.  They  are  made  of  teak  and  ebony  with  marble  seats 

Page  twenty-three 


and  marble  discs  set  in  the  backs.  There  are  several  old  candlesticks  of 
s-lver,  beautifully  engraved,  also  some  of  brass.  The  old  vestments  used 
in  Mission  days  are  still  preserved,  but  no  longer  used  except  on  very  rare 
occasions. 

In  the  sacristy  is  an  iron  safe  in  which  were  kept  the  sacred  vessels. 
It  is  about  three  feet  wide  and  four  feet  high,  wrapped  with  iron  bands 
and  studded  with  many  knobs. 

There  is  also  a  reliquary  carved  out  of  wood,  gaudily  painted  and  dis- 
tinctively Indian.  It  contains  several  relics  of  the  saints,  including  some 
pieces  of  the  bones  from  the  catacombs  of  Rome.  On  the  back  is  a  list 
of  the  contents  in  Fr.  Serra's  handwriting.  The  record  books,  written 
by  Fr.  Serra  and  the  other  Padres,  contain  records  of  all  baptisms,  mar- 
riages, etc.,  and  are  carefully  preserved.  A  few  old  paintings  are  also  to 
be  seen.  These  relics  were  brought  from  San  Carlos  Mission  at  Carmel 
when  it  was  vacated. 

The  oak  under  which  Mass  was  celebrated  when  Viscaino  visited  Mon- 
terey in  1602  and  by  Fr.  Serra  in  1770,  is  said  to  have  been  the  one 
which  grew  in  the  southeast  corner  of  the  present  Presidio.  A  cross  was 
erected  under  this  tree  on  the  centenary,  June  3,  1870.  This  cross  has 
recently  been  replaced  by  a  granite  monument.  The  tree  died  a  few 
years  ago  and  the  trunk  was  taken  to  the  rear  of  the  church  and  set  up 
with  an  appropriate  tablet  at  its  base. 

In  the  Presidio  may  also  be  seen  a  statue  of  Fr.  Serra  stepping  from  a 
boat,  with  Bible  in  hand. 


Page  twenty-four 


Description  of  San  Carlos  Church 
At  Carmel 


FROM  Ocean  Avenue,  the  main  thoroughfare  of    Carmel,    San     Carlos 
Street  wends  its  way  in  a  southerly  direction,  through  the  trees,  for 
about  half  a  mile,  where  the  edge  of  the  pine  forest  is  reached.     At 
this  point,  peering  over  the  crest  of  the  hill,  is  seen  the  moss-covered  dome 
of  the  Mission.      A  few  steps  further  and  the  whole  building  bursts  into 
view.     In  accordance  with  the  custom  of  the  Franciscans,  a  most  favorable 
site  was  selected.     The  Mission,  facing  due  east,  is  situated  on  a  slight  emi- 
nence overlooking  the  Carmel  Valley,  through  which  winds  the  Carmel  River 
on  its  way  to  the  beautiful  blue  waters  of  the  bay  not  far  distant. 

This  sacred  old  structure  was  built  by  the  Indians,  under  the  direction 
of  the  Padres.  Large  blocks  of  the  chalk  rock,  which  is  plentiful  in  this 
region,  were  utilized  in  constructing  the  church.  Four  years  was  the  time 
required  to  bring  the  work  to  completion.  The  walls  are  about  four  feet 
thick  at  the  bottom  and  are  so  built  as  to  make  a  graceful  curve  toward 
the  top  on  the  inside.  There  are  three  buttresses  on  each  side.  These 
held  the  curved  arches  which  supported  the  low  tiled  roof.  This  roof, 
having  fallen  in,  was  replaced  at  the  time  of  the  restoration,  by  the  present 
shingle  roof,  the  available  funds  not  being  sufficient  to  cover  the  cost  of 
replacing  the  tiled  roof.  The  old  roof  tiles  were  nearly  all  broken,  but  a 
few  remaining  ones  cover  the  roof  of  a  barn  in  the  Mission  orchard  nearby, 
while  others  are  probably  resting  on  some  of  the  old  adobes  in  Monterey. 

The  building  is  quite  large.  The  interior  dimensions  are  as  follows: 
Length,  from  entrance  to  rear  wall,  165  feet;  width,  at  base  of  walls,  29 
feet;  height,  from  floor  to  ceiling,  40  feet. 

Page  twenty-five 


Originally,  large  red  square  tiles  covered  the  floor.  Nearly  all  the  tiles 
having  been  destroyed  by  exposure  to  the  elements,  the  floor  was  left  for 
the  most  part  of  bare  earth.  In  1907  a  concrete  floor  was  made,  spaced 
off  to  represent  the  original  tiles.  Some  of  the  old  tiles  were  used  to  pave 
the  sanctuary  (behind  the  altar  rail),  where  they  may  now  be  seen. 

The  only  exterior  wall  in  its  original  state  is  the  one  on  the  north  side, 
the  others  having  required  a  coat  of  plaster  to  preserve  them.  This  northern 
wall  is  of  a  rich  cream  color,  with  patches  of  bright  green  moss;  the  whole 
aspect  denoting  age.  The  wall  is  strengthened  by  six  buttresses,  two  of 
them  reinforced  with  massive  bases.  Everywhere  may  be  seen  disfiguring 
names  scratched  on  the  walls  by  the  stupid  vandal,  who  evidently  has  not 
heard  the  old  saying,  "Fools'  names,  like  their  faces,"  etc. 

The  front  entrance  is  large  and  beautifully  carved,  and  above  it  is  a  star- 
shaped  window.  This  window  is  slightly  out  of  plumb,  but  this,  instead 
of  detracting,  lends  interest,  and  is  evidence  of  having  been  made  with 
primitive  implements.  Set  in  the  facade,  immediately  above  the  window, 
is  a  small  marble  slab,  reading:  "Founded  1770 — Restored  1884." 

On  each  corner  of  the  front  is  a  tower,  the  one  on  the  southern  corner, 
surmounted  by  a  dome,  held  several  bells.  The  northern  tower  is  small 
and  probably  contained  one  or  two  bells.  In  the  large  tower  are  two  arched 
openings  in  the  front  and  one  in  the  side,  where  the  bells  hung.  In  the 
southern  opening  is  a  modern  bell,  which  is  rung  when  services  are  held. 
The  original  bells,  which  were  all  cracked,  were  melted  and  recast  into 
new  ones,  which  now  hang  in  the  tower  of  the  Monterey  church. 

The  moss-covered  dome  is  egg-shaped  and  is  surmounted  by  an  iron- 
work cross,  said  to  be  the  original.  The  cornices,  turrets,  and  other 
carved  stonework  are  considerably  eaten  away  by  the  weather.  At  the 
rear  of  the  tower  is  a  stone  stairway  leading  to  the  belfry.  In  1907  it  was 
repaired,  being  overgrown  with  weeds  and  rapidly  falling  to  decay.  Arriv- 
ing at  the  top,  we  find  ourselves  in  the  belfry  under  the  dome.  Looking 
up  into  it  may  be  seen  the  crude  cross-beams  and  far  up  near  the  top  a 
lone  thong  of  rawhide  hangs,  which  was  used  for  tying  the  beams  together. 
The  only  reason  it  has  not  been  taken  by  the  obnoxious  relic  thief  is  on 

Page  twenty-six 


account  of  its  inaccessibility.  In  the  wall,  by  the  stairway,  is  a  niche  which 
held  a  carving  of  wood,  representing  the  Blessed  Virgin.  It  was  carved  in 
a  very  crude  manner,  and,  no  doubt,  by  Indian  hands.  In  1  893  the  image 
was  removed  and  taken  to  the  church  at  Monterey,  as  the  exposure  to  the 
weather  was  gradually  destroying  it.  There  still  remains  in  the  top  of  the 
niche  a  piece  of  wood  carved  in  a  simple  design. 

Immediately  on  the  left,  as  we  enter  the  church,  is  the  baptistry — a  small 
room  with  elaborately  arched  ceiling  and  carved  columns.  A  handsomely 
decorated  stone  baptismal  font  stands  in  the  center.  This  font  is  modern, 
the  original  one  having  been  "carted  off"  many  years  ago. 

Next  on  the  left  is  a  doorway  leading  into  a  small  side  chapel.  This 
splendid  doorway,  with  its  columns  and  scrolls,  is  one  of  the  most  striking 
pieces  of  architecture  of  the  church.  On  the  wall,  in  the  chapel,  is  the  only 
original  fresco.  It  consists  of  a  space  about  three  feet  square,  which  was 
spared  by  the  whitewasher's  brush  when  the  Mission  was  restored.  In  this 
space  is  painted  a  prayer  in  Spanish.  A  new  frame,  on  the  wall  near  by, 
contains  an  English  translation. 

The  old  altar  steps  are  still  in  place.  These  are  of  stone;  one  of  them, 
a  single  piece  almost  eleven  feet  long.  The  altar  itself,  as  well  as  practically 
all  the  furnishings  in  the  church,  are  new.  On  the  left  hand  wall  in  the 
sanctuary  is  a  marble  slab,  the  translation  of  the  Latin  being  as  follows: 

"Here  lie  the  remains 
of  the  Administrator  Rev.  Father 

Junipero  Serra 

Order  of  Saint  Francis 

Founder  of  the  California  Missions 

And  President 

Buried  in  peace. 

Died  28th  day  of  August  A.  D.    1  784 

And  his  companions 

Rev.  Fathers 

John  Crespi 

Julian  Lopez 

and 

Francis  Lasuen 
May  they  rest  in  peace." 

Page  twenty -seven 


On  the  floor  may  be  seen  the  stone  slabs  covering  the  tombs. 

An  arched  doorway  of  simple  design  leads  from  the  altar  to  the  sacristy. 
This  is  quite  a  large  room,  one  of  the  walls  of  which  contains  a  massive 
lavatory,  consisting  of  double  basins  cut  out  of  stone. 

The  pulpit  rests  on  a  base  of  stone  projecting  from  the  wall  near  the 
altar  and  is  reached  by  a  wide  stairway  from  the  sacristy.  The  woodwork 
is  new. 

There  is  but  one  of  the  original  window  frames  remaining  and  this  is 
the  first  window  on  the  right,  as  the  church  is  entered.  Another  piece  of 
architecture  worthy  of  note  is  the  spiral  stairway  in  the  small  tower  on  the 
right  which  leads  to  the  choir.  This  stairway  winds  upward  in  a  very 
narrow  space  and  the  heavy  stones  are  much  hollowed  out  by  the  countless 
number  of  feet  which  have  passed  over  therm. 

Inside  the  church,  on  the  floor,  may  be  seen  some  of  the  old  woodwork 
hewn  from  cypress  trees. 

Scattered  about  in  the  immediate  vicinity  are  the  fast-crumbling  adobe 
walls  of  the  living  apartments,  store-houses  and  other  buildings  which  were 
connected  with  the  Mission.  These  adobes  will  probably  entirely  disappear 
within  a  very  few  years,  as  instead  of  preserving  them  some  have  actually 
been  pulled  down  and  used  to  fill  in  roads. 

At  the  right  of  the  church  is  the  cemetery.  The  only  indication  of  graves 
being  a  few  mounds  marked  by  piles  of  loose  stones  and  rotting  sticks  The 
cemetery,  no  doubt,  extended  into  the  field  adjoining  and  even  at  this  late 
date  medals  and  other  relics  are  occasionally  found  when  the  land  is  being 
plowed.  During  the  construction  of  a  new  road  a  basin  made  of  the 
yellow  chalk  rock  was  unearthed  and  may  now  be  seen  at  the  Carmel  News 
Company. 

It  is  the  intention  to  replace  the  tiled  roof  when  sufficient  means  are  at 
hand  and  a  fund  is  now  being  raised  for  this  purpose.  The  parish  priest 
will  gratefully  receive  donations  for  this  worthy  cause. 


Page  twenty-eight 


Original  Painting  of  Prayer  on  Wall  at  Carmel 


"  —  >>. 

Tombstone  of  Fr.  Serra  and 
Companions 


0,Corazonde  Jesus, 

Sicmpre  ardes  y  resplandece; 


dctuamo  •  divino. 
Alabemos  alCorazon  de  Jesus. 


English  Translation 
of  Above  Prayer 


Page  twenty-nine 


Activities  of  the  Present  Day 
At  Carmel 


AT  THE  present  time  Mass  is  held  at     the     San     Carlos   Mission  at 
Carmel  on  the  fourth  Sunday  of  each  month  at  10:30  A.  M. 

On  San  Carlos  Day,  November  4,  a  grand  fiesta  always  takes 
place,  as  has  been  the  custom  since  the  founding  of  the  Mission.  On  this 
occasion  there  is  a  large  attendance,  made  up  of  Mexicans  and  Spaniards 
from  afar  as  well  as  the  regular  parishioners  and  a  goodly  number  of  tour- 
ists and  others.  High  Mass  is  sung  and  the  customary  Spanish  sermon  is 
delivered,  the  church  for  this  occasion  being  elaborately  decorated  with  pine 
trees  and  quantities  of  bright  colored  flowers. 

After  Mass  all  form  in  a  procession  around  the  church,  a  relic  and 
statue  of  San  Carlos  being  carried  in  the  lead.  During  the  procession  a 
hymn  is  also  sung  in  his  honor. 

The  religious  services  being  completed,  a  beef  is  usually  barbecued,  of 
which  all  who  attend  are  invited  to  partake. 

At  any  time  visitors  may  obtain  entrance  to  the  church  by  calling  at  the 
keeper's  home  nearby  and  paying  a  small  fee. 

On  July  4,  1911,  a  Pageant  was  given  at  Carmel,  representing  the 
historical  incidents  connected  with  the  founding  of  the  Mission.  This  was 
enacted  by  a  large  number  of  the  townspeople  and  others,  in  an  ideal  place 
among  the  pines,  the  scenes  being  presented  in  a  manner  most  realistic.  Sev- 
eral thousand  people  were  present  at  this  celebration  and  it  is  the  intention 
to  hold  a  similar  event  every  year  on  this  date. 

At  Monterey 

San  Carlos  Church  at  Monterey  being  regularly  used  as  the  parish 
church,  Mass  is  held  every  morning  at  7:30  o'clock  and  on  Sundays  at 
8:15  and  10:30.  Visitors  will  be  shown  the  church  and  relics  by 
applying  at  the  rectory  next  door. 

Page  thirty 


Hymn  to  San  Carlos 


i. 

We  come  to  thee,  oh  happy  Saint, 

To  claim  thy  care  and  love; 
To  beg  thy  guidance  through  this  life, 

To  endless  bliss  above. 
Chorus : 

Oh  pray  for  us,  San  Carlos, 

For  dangers  hover  near; 
Oh  pray  that  God  may  give  us  strength 

To  conquer  every  fear. 

II. 
While  in  the  rosy  dawn  of  youth, 

To  God  thy  heart  was  given. 
And  true  thro'  life  thy  spotless  soul 

Mid  suffering  soared  to  heaven. 

III. 
Thy  purity  has  won  for  thee 

A  crown  of  fadeless  light. 
Oh!  may  its  radiance  shine  on  us 

And  cheer  the  gloom  of  night. 

IV. 
Oh !  pray  for  us,  oh  happy  Saint, 

While  on  the  sea  of  life, 
We  struggle  with  the  winds  and  waves. 

Oh!  aid  us  in  the  strife. 

y. 

And  when  we've  triumphed  over  sin 
And  death's  dread  hour  is  nigh, 

Oh!  pray  that  God  may  angels  send 
To  bear  our  souls  on  high. 


Page  thirty- 


The  Midnight  Mass 

With  permission  of  R.  E.  White 


Of  the  mission  church  San  Carlos, 

Builded  by  Carmelo's  Bay, 
There  remains  an  ivied  ruin 

That  is  crumbling  fast  away. 
In  its  tower  the  owls  find  shelter, 

In  its  sanctuary  grow 
Rankest  weeds  above  the  earth  mounds, 

And  the  dead  find  rest  below. 


Still,  by  peasants  at  Carmelo, 

Tales  are  told  and  songs  are  sung 
Of  Junipero,  the  Padre, 

In  the  sweet  Castilian  tongue: 
Telling  how  each  year  he  rises 

From  his  grave  the  mass  to  say, 
In  the  midnight,  mid  the  ruins, 

On  the  eve  of  Carlos'  day. 


And  they  tell  when,  aged  and  feeble, 

Feeling  that  his  end  was  nigh, 
To  the  Mission  of  San  Carlos 

Padre  Serra  came  to  die; 
And  he  lay  upon  a  litter 

That  Franciscan  friars  bore, 
And  he  bade  them  rest  a  moment 

At  the  cloister's  open  door. 


Page  thirty-two 


Then  he  gazed  upon  the  landscape 

That  in  beauty  lay  unrolled, 
And  he  blessed  the  land  as  Francis 

Blessed  Assisi's  town  of  old; 
And  he  spoke:     "A  hundred  masses 

I  will  sing,  if  still  life's  guest, 
That  the  blessing  I  have  given 

On  the  land  may  ever  rest." 

Ere  a  mass  was  celebrated, 

Good  Junipero   had   died, 
And  they  laid  him  in  the  chancel, 

On  the  altar's  gospel  side. 
But  each  year  the  Padre  rises 

From  his  grave  the  mass  to  say, 
In  the  midnight,  mid  the  ruins, 

On  the  eve  of  Carlos'  day. 

Then  the  sad  souls,  long  years  buried, 

From  their  lowly  graves  arise, 
And,  as  if  doom's  trump  had  sounded, 

Each  assumes  his  mortal  guise; 
And  they  come  from  San  Juan's  Mission, 

From  St.  Francis  by  the  bay, 
From  the  Mission  San  Diego, 

And  the  Mission  San  Jose. 

With  their  gaudy  painted  banners, 

And  their  flambeaux  burning  bright, 
In  a  long  procession  come  they 

Through  the  darkness  and  the  night; 
Singing  hymns  and  swinging  censers, 

Dead  folks'  ghosts, — they  onward  pass 
To  the  ivy-covered  ruins, 

To  be  present  at  the  mass. 

And  the  grandsire,  and  the  grandam, 
And  their  children  march  along, 

And  they  know  not  one  another 
In  that  weird,  unearthly  throng. 


Page  thirty-three 


And  the  youth  and  gentle  maiden, 
They  who  loved  in  days  of  yore, 

Walk  together  now  as  strangers, 
For  the  dead  love  nevermore. 

In  the  church  now  all  are  gathered, 

And  not  long  have  they  to  wait; 
From  his  grave  the  Padre  rises, 

Midnight  mass  to  celebrate. 
First  he  blesses  all  assembled, 

Soldiers,  Indians,  acolytes; 
Then  he  bows  before  the  altar, 

And  begins  the  mystic  rites. 

When  the  Padre  sings  the  Sanctus, 

And  the  Host  is  raised  on  high, 
Then  the  bells  up  in  the  belfry, 

Swung  by  spirits,  make  reply; 
And  the  drums  roll,  and  the  soldiers 

In  the  air  a  volley  fire, 
While  the   Salutaris  rises 

Grandly  from  the  phantom  choir. 

"Ite,  missa  est,"  is  spoken 

At  the  dawning  of  the  day, 
And  the  pageant  strangely  passes 

From  the  ruins  sere  and  gray; 
And  Junipero,  the  Padre, 

Lying  down,  resumes  his  sleep, 
And  the  tar-weeds,  rank  and  noisome, 

O'er  his  grave  luxuriant  creep. 

And  the  lights  upon  the  altar 

And  the  torches  cease  to  burn, 
And  the  vestments  and  the  banners 

Into  dust  and  ashes  turn; 
And  the  ghostly  congregation 

Cross  themselves,  and,  one  by  one, 
Into  thin  air  swiftly  vanish, 

And  the  midnight  mass  is  done. 


Page  thirty-four 


GUIDE   BOOK 

Sent  Postpaid  to  any  address  for  35  Cents 

Car  me  I    News    Company, 


Carmel   Livery  and  Teaming  Co. 

C.  O.  GOOLD,  Manager 

Teaming  of  A  II  Kinds 

Rigs  of  any  size  furnished  for  all  points  of  interest 
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P;  I  Carmel-by-the-Sea 

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California 

The  Winter  and 
Summer    Resort 

Steam  Heat  Moderate  Terms 

Automobile  meets  all  trains  at  Monterey 

Address,  Manager,  Carmel,  Cal. 

Page  thirty-five 


Nature  has  lavished  on  Carmel-by- 

the.Sea  ilsbesl..inbeaches,intrees, 

in  mountains,  in  historical  surroundings,  in  climate.  These  houses  show  that  the 
citizens  are  in  full  harmony  with  the  keynote  given  by  nature.  The  town  now 
/ias  400  houses  or  thereabouts;  of  these  more  than  200  have  been  designed 
by  architects  who  attempted  to  have  the  improvements  fit  the  local  surroundings. 
Perhaps  someone  may  differ  with  them  as  to  the  complete  fittingness  of 
the  result  in  one  or  more  particular  spots,  but  no  one  will  gainsay  that  the 
improvements  as  a  whole  make  it  A  town  with  a  temperament  wholly  its  own. 
The  town  is  on  a  firm  substantial  business  basis.  Every  comfort,  every 
luxury  possible  in  a  community  far  enough  away  from  railroad  transportation  to 
warrant  that  the  charms  of  nature  are  practically  as  produced  by  the  Creator,  is 
available  at  the  local  stores  at  moderate  prices. 

For  Particulars  Address  J.  F.  DEVENDORF,  Manager  Carmel  Development  Co. 
Carmel-bythe-Sea,  Monterey  Co.,  Cal. 

Artistic  Photographs 

The  Mission  of  San  Carlos 

Including  all  shown  in  this  Booklet 

The  Historic  Buildings  of  Monterey 

And  a  large  selection  of  scenic  photos 
of  this  locality  at  prices  from  25  cents  up 

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Souvenir  Tea  Spoons  of  Carmel  Mission,  Sterling  Siloer     .          .    $2.00  each,  postpaid 

Carmel    News    Company 

Carmel,   California 

Page  thirty-six 


asm 


